Lost Holiday Cookie Traditions: Reviving Recipes from the 1800s
Published On: Dec. 23rd, 2024
When we think of holiday cookies, most of us picture sugar cookies shaped like trees or gingerbread men with tiny icing buttons. But the 19th century was an entirely different world of holiday baking, full of unique flavors, hand-crafted designs, and deeply rooted traditions. These cookies weren’t just desserts—they were personal, symbolic, and in some cases, downright labor-intensive. But over the decades, many of these recipes were quietly left behind as convenience trumped tradition. This holiday season, we’re taking a sweet journey back in time to rediscover these forgotten treasures, their stories, and why they deserve a place on our cookie platters today.
Let’s take molasses buttons, for example. These chewy, spiced cookies were a staple in colonial America when molasses was cheaper and more accessible than refined sugar. Molasses wasn’t just an ingredient; it was a symbol of resilience and ingenuity. Families used it to stretch their baking budgets, and its bold, earthy flavor became synonymous with homey, comforting desserts. But as sugar prices dropped, molasses was sidelined, taking recipes like molasses buttons with it. Baking these today is like taking a bite out of history—each chewy morsel is a reminder of the resourcefulness of early American households.
Then there’s rosewater drops, a favorite of Victorian bakers who loved their cookies to be as fragrant as a flower garden. Rosewater was used long before vanilla became the go-to extract, lending cookies a delicate floral aroma that was both elegant and indulgent. These cookies were often reserved for special occasions, and their dainty size and unique flavor made them a symbol of luxury. But as vanilla took over in the 20th century, rosewater faded into the background. Now, it’s time to bring it back and remind ourselves why these little floral gems were once the height of deliciousness.
Perhaps the most intriguing story belongs to Shrewsbury cakes, a cookie with roots in England’s Elizabethan era that made its way to America with settlers. These crisp, buttery treats were flavored with nutmeg and caraway seeds, a combination that might seem odd to modern palates but was considered a perfect pairing at the time. Shrewsbury cakes were often given as gifts or tokens of affection, their sturdy texture making them ideal for travel. But as tastes shifted to sweeter, softer cookies, these spiced wonders fell out of favor. Today, recreating Shrewsbury cakes is like opening a window to the past, offering a taste of flavors that once defined festive celebrations.
So, why did people stop making these cookies? For some, it was the rise of modern conveniences—why spend hours hand-molding Springerle cookies when you could grab a box of pre-made gingerbread men? For others, it was a shift in taste preferences—vanilla overtook rosewater, and molasses was replaced by granulated sugar. But these recipes are more than just sweets; they’re pieces of cultural history, carrying the stories of the people who made them, the challenges they faced, and the celebrations they shared.
Whether it’s the earthy richness of molasses buttons, the floral elegance of rosewater drops, or the spiced charm of Shrewsbury cakes, these cookies offer more than flavor—they offer a connection to the past. So roll up your sleeves, preheat the oven, and give these old recipes a new life. You might just start a new tradition while honoring the ingenuity and creativity of bakers from over a century ago. After all, the best recipes are the ones with a story to tell.