When Skincare Goes Too Far: California Bill Targets Minors

At first glance, this might seem like a positive shift—after all, taking care of your skin early is widely considered beneficial. Preventative skincare can help maintain a healthy complexion, and establishing good habits early can be a smart investment in long-term skin health. But the reality is far more complicated.

Enter the ‘Sephora Kids’—tweens and young teens who flood beauty stores, eager to get their hands on luxury skincare products that aren’t even designed for their skin. Influenced by beauty influencers and TikTok trends like the “morning shed” (where people apply multiple products before bed and wipe them off dramatically in the morning), these young shoppers are diving headfirst into skincare routines far beyond their years. While dermatologists support basic skincare—like gentle cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreen—many are concerned that tweens are using harsh anti-aging products that could damage their still-developing skin.

Now, California lawmakers are stepping in.

Assemblymember Alex Lee (D-San José) has introduced AB 728, a bill prohibiting the sale of anti-aging skincare products to anyone under 18. The legislation specifically targets retinoids (such as retinol and retinoic acid) and alpha hydroxy acids (like glycolic acid, ascorbic acid, and citric acid)—ingredients commonly found in the products dominating skincare TikTok.

Lee argues that these products, designed to stimulate collagen production and speed up cell turnover, aren’t necessary for kids and could be harmful. Young skin regenerates rapidly, meaning these potent formulas can cause excessive irritation, redness, and increased sensitivity to the sun.

“Children shouldn’t be worrying about fine lines and wrinkles,” Lee told reporters. “The beauty industry is profiting off of an unnecessary and potentially dangerous trend.”

While skincare’s rise in popularity among younger generations has some clear benefits—teaching the importance of self-care and healthy habits—it also raises serious concerns about misinformation, overconsumption, and unrealistic beauty standards.

Social media has made skincare feel essential for everyone, regardless of whether they need it. Many tweens now believe they need complex 10-step routines with expensive serums when, in reality, most young skin thrives with just a gentle cleanser, a moisturizer, and SPF.

Dermatologists are also seeing increased skin issues caused by overuse of active ingredients, including chemical burns, peeling, rashes, and even worsening acne due to excessive layering of products.

“There’s a reason dermatologists prescribe certain treatments under strict conditions,” says Dr. Zakia Rahman, a clinical professor of dermatology at Stanford University. “Retinoids, for example, can be FDA-approved for acne in younger patients, but they should be used with medical guidance. When kids use them without supervision, it can lead to skin damage.”

The beauty industry has criticized Lee’s bill, arguing that it’s difficult to enforce and might unintentionally restrict access to general skincare essentials. The Personal Care Products Council, representing brands like Sephora and Ulta, has criticized the bill, saying it “overregulates products that are safe when used correctly.”

However, supporters believe the legislation would send a strong message about protecting young consumers. While some kids may still get their hands on these products through parents or older friends, the goal is to create a cultural shift away from anti-aging obsession among tweens.

At the heart of the debate is a larger conversation about beauty standards, consumerism, and the role of social media in shaping young people’s self-image. While self-care is valuable, society needs to reconsider the pressure to achieve flawless, ageless skin at 10 years old.

For now, AB 728 must pass multiple legislative hurdles before it can become law. If approved, it could take effect as early as 2026, potentially reshaping the way young people approach skincare for years to come.